Contents, № 01 (234) February 2021



domestic chemistry Novelties



Mintel: Beauty and Personal Care Trends for 2021

Mintel, the experts in what consumers want and why, has announced four key consumer trends set to impact the global beauty and personal care industry during 2021.


Aromabreakfast from Volga Solutions: acquaintance with the perfumery direction of the company

On December 15, 2020, an aroma breakfast was held, by Volga Solutions. In the atmosphere of pleasant aromas, representatives of the perfume industry introduced the range and novelties – scented candles, aromadiffusers, sticks and mixtures for creating aroma compositions.


Sunscreen Formulations: Cutting Edge Concepts and Ingredients
Krasney E.

The pandemic will come to the end and we return to normal life, but with a different understanding of the norm. There will definitely be a place for the sunscreen cosmetics because this is a part of our safety. But it will already be the sunscreen cosmetics of new principles, aimed at improving the health of humanity and the planet as a whole. The previous reasons for its use will not disappear, but at the same time new ones will appear, for example, related to immunity. It is known that irradiation with ultraviolet light with a wavelength of 320-340 nm reduces the number of mast cells in the skin which leads to a weakening of the immune response to antigens and can potentially reduce the effectiveness of vaccination. It can be an additional argument in favor of the use of sunscreen cosmetics and, who knows, to give impetus to the development of new ideas in modern realities.


A Global and Powerful Approach to Circumvent the Harmful Effects of Blue Light and IR-A Irradiation on the Skin
Bicard-Benhamou V., Lefort M., Heider L., Lage J., Hornung S., Hanau H., Kielbassa A., Carola C., Hagen J., Merck KGaA (Darmstadt, Germany)

Appropriate and controlled doses of UV, HEVL and IR may be beneficial for solving different skin problems; however, protection in all these ranges is needed. It often remains in mind that photoprotection is mainly a matter of UV protection. However, all solar radiation leads to the formation of radical oxygen species (ROS), and an excess of free radicals in the skin contributes to premature skin aging and wrinkling. Visible light, and especially high-energy visible light (HEVL, 400–500nm), notably triggers pro-inflammatory cytokines, the expression of different matrix metalloproteinases, and/or oxidation of proteins. All these markers play a role in accelerating skin aging (e.g. sagging skin, inflammation, wrinkles, and pigmentation disorders). In comparison, infrared (IR) radiation has the lowest energy level, but its contribution to the solar spectrum reaching the human skin is about 45%. Therefore, the biological impact on the skin may be strong. IR light, and particularly IR-A (700–1400nm), induces significant free radicals in the dermis and diminishes the skin’s antioxidant capacity. Additionally, at high doses, harmful effects are reported. IR radiation has been shown to alter the collagen content of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), not only by causing increased expression of the collagen-degrading enzymes MMPs, but also by decreasing de novo collagen synthesis.


The role of Pollutants in Skin Aging
Prokopov A., Ph.D. (Medicine), Laboratory of Novelties, ROS-Chemistry
Gazitaeva Z., plastic surgeon, Fijie Beauty Institute

As studies of recent years show, the most underestimated and attracting attention of scientists to environmental factors that have a significant impact on the quality of human life, and the state of his skin, are environmental toxins or pollutants and disturbances in circadian dynamics.


NORKEM: continuous improvement

NORСHEM is the leading producer of surfactants and their derivatives with a wide range of applications. Last year the Сompany completed a series of technical interventions in the development of assets the sites, increased production capacity and expanded product lines using up-to-date technologies. We discussed with the General Director of NORCHEM LLC current market trends and the Company’s plans for the next year.


Ethoxylated higher fatty alcohols C12-C14
Merkulov D. А., Ph.D. (Chemistry), Head of Technical Marketing and Sales Support Service, Norkem LLC

Ethoxylated higher fatty alcohols C12-C14 belong to the class of non-ionic surface active agents (SAA). They have a very wide range of useful consumer properties, which include high wetting, emulsifying and washing ability; excellent compatibility and synergy with other SAA; excellent resistance to hard water; high chemical stability over a wide pH range; fast and complete biodegradability in the environment. Due to a valuable set of consumer properties, these SAA have found wide application and show particular effectiveness in personal hygiene products, as well as in household chemicals.


Best of the Best: Cosmetics Packaging Awards

Berezina E.
Despite the difficult year, the global packaging market was full of interesting novelties, innovative developments and achievements. It was presented at various exhibitions, many of which were held online. International and national awards also selected the winners and awarded the best packaging in a new format. Most of the ceremonies were held in the form of online broadcasts. Being a clear indicator of the situation in the global packaging market, the awards give a clear idea of current trends and changes coming there. In this review, we offer to get acquainted with the most interesting winners of various awards and competitions held in 2020.


Raw materials for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals

Equipment for packaging manufacturing

Equipment for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals manufacturing

Packaging for perfumery and cosmetics

Manufacturing services. Contract manufacturing