Contents. № 02 (259) March 2023



Mushroom “renaissance” in cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals
β -glucans and polyphenols of mushrooms are especially interesting for cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals.


domestic chemistry Novelties



Auxiliary Components of Sunscreen: How to Make Protection More Reliable
Krasney E., Head of the Scientific Research Sector of PKF Modum – Nasha Kosmetika

Sunscreen cosmetics must meet many requirements that allow you to make the protection as effective as possible, and the cosmetics – pleasant and easy to use. For this purpose, various auxiliary components are used to ensure uniform application and distribution of filters on the skin, enhancing their characteristics, expanding the protection spectrum, stabilizing, providing water resistance, etc. A variety of ingredients in sunscreen formulations have such abilities – from emulsifiers and emollients to functional fillers and antioxidants.

Cosmetic and Green Chemistry: Water in All Its States
Portolan F.,, founder and director of Natur Insight (France)

Portolan F., PhD, founder and director of Natur Insight (France)

Continuation, the beginning of the topic in No. 1 (258). For several years now, the constant pressure of consumers and the strengthening of regulations regarding the use of organic solvents in the development of ingredients has allowed the Green Cosmetic to impose itself in the sector. Representing a market of 36 billion USD in 2018, this market share is expected to increase to 55 billion USD in 2027. Faced with this demand, the eco-design of ingredients using green solvents is no longer a «marketing added value» but simply an obligation. Numerous technical and technological innovations have been developed to provide access to new green solvents. But what about one of the solvents used since antiquity, easily accessible (for how much longer?), inexpensive: WATER.


Skinification: the Main Hair Care Trend

In the haircare market, interesting shifts are occurring across several products from shampoo to scalp treatments – the Skinification of Hair Care. It`s a shift in focus in the haircare market from repairing existing damage to preventing damage, starting from the root of concern: the scalp.

Trends in FMCG Marketing: What is important for a Russian Consumer in a Crisis?

In February, in Moscow, the Promis company organized a webinar Trends in FMCG Marketing, where industry experts told how the behavior of the Russian consumers has changed and how FMCG manufacturers can improve their position in the market.


Clinico-Laboratorial Studies of Horophytes – a Natural Bioactive Complex to Protect Against Hair Loss and Stimulate Their Growth
Zverev A.V.1, Kirdyaeva O. P.1, Gurochkina L. P., Ph.D(Medicine).2, Golub N. Yu., Ph.D(Medicine) 2
2 LLC Center of Aesthetic Medicine and expertise

Specialists of Ecological Resources Research Center “GORO” have developed a natural bioactive complex GOROFIT No. 48. It is a CO2 extract of a composition of plants: burdock, red onion, birch leaves, usma and peppermint, pumpkin and flax seeds, as well as red pepper and acai, with the addition of essential oils of lavender and thyme. GOROFIT No. 48 consists entirely of generally accepted ingredients approved for use in accordance with TR TS 009/2011. They are natural, do not contain impurities that are not inherent in the original plant material.
Current and Future Repellent Technologies: The Potential of Spatial Repellents

Repellent technologies are important tools in the arsenal for preventing the spread of mosquito-borne disease. Current and future resistance to various repellent technologies in wild mosquito populations, lack of user compliance in adequate and timely repellent reapplication, and low residual character of current repellent technologies all represent a significant impetus for the development of novel repellent technologies.


The role of regulating the pH of shampoo to maintain a healthy state of hair
Balakina M. V., Ph.D. (Pharmacy)

To maintain a healthy state of the hair, much attention is paid to the choice of shampoo. As well as to its composition and the choice of soft surfactants. Formulation development requires regulation of the pH level. In this article, attention is paid to the role of the hydrogen index (pH) and its effect on the hair condition. The question of the neutral value of the pH level of shampoo for the scalp and hair is also considered.


Cosmetic Products Based on Stem Cells’ Ingredients
Krasney E., Head of the Scientific Research Sector of PKF Modum – Nasha Kosmetika

Today, there are a lot of cosmetic products that somehow involve the theme of stem cells. And, it is already difficult to surprise with a cream with stem cells. But what is really behind such cosmetics and what are its advantages – if they exist at all?


Brewers’ spent hop revalorization for the production of high added-value cosmetics anti-age ingredients

Industrial production of beer generates around 14 kg/hL of by-products, mostly spent hop, which have arisen to transform to high added-value products as microbial biomass for single cell protein production or source of polyphenols and antioxidants for cosmetics industries. The article summarizes the analysis of α and β-acids and prenylflavonoids from brewers’ spent hop (BSH) as source of bioactive molecules to improve skin integrity by inhibiting elastase activity.


How do Perfumes Smell in the Metaverse?
Radionov N.V., PhD (Biology)

Many consumers are interested in buying virtual looks such as makeup or hair that can be applied to their avatar or themselves virtually through a digital filter. As we spend more and more time in the virtual space, our digital self is becoming as important as our physical self. Let’s take a closer look at how the metaverse works today, how cosmetics manufacturers enter this world and what they do there.


Cosmetic Market Rebels

Russian indie – brands have created a unique world of skin care and color cosmetics, progressive, innovative in which the concept of “niche” and “selective” is changing. Who are they, rebels of the cosmetics market, bold and authentic, who create and stay ahead of trends, have a true history and step by step fulfill their unique mission to bring beauty to the world?


Raw materials for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals

Equipment for packaging manufacturing

Equipment for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals manufacturing

Packaging for perfumery and cosmetics

Manufacturing services. Contract manufacturing