Contents, № 09 (256) november 2022



domestic chemistry Novelties



Seminar of Special Products Ru – R&D Center Camis: experience and knowledge in the new time

In September 2022, a surreal seminar of the company Special Products Ru (R&D CENTER Camis) was held. Spec-Chem top peptides from the Chinese company SC® Spec-Chem Gro, products from Bloomage Biotec, report “Live. Love. Emulsify “with offers from Reachin ChemicaL, ELSO fragrances and assets from the Russian partner – Biocevtica were presented to specialists.


ImportSubstitution in The New Conditions
Balakina M.V., Ph.D. (Pharmaceuticals)

Continuation. Start at No. 8 (254) We present the continuation of the reviews of proposals from domestic manufacturers for the creation of import substituting of cosmetic ingredients and household chemicals. This issue will provide information and suggestions on chemical components, reagents, surfactants, auxiliary ingredients and others.


Cosmetics for oily skin: ingredients and formulations
Ktasnei Е., Head of the Scientific Research Sector of PCF Modum –

Nasha Kosmetika

The article discusses the features of cosmetic formulations for oily skin care.

VASTPerfume Week 2022: Present and Future of Russian Perfumery

In Moscow, at the National Hotel, VAST Perfume Week 2022 was held from September 29 to October 2. The organizer of the Perfume Week is the Perfume Club of Russia. It was a celebration that confirmed that life goes on. A holiday that showed that Russian perfumes have a great future, and that there are those who have already created real Russian perfumes, original, individual, non-standard.


Collagen Peptides: Maintaining Beauty from Within

Striving for a healthy lifestyle and maintaining beauty from the inside become guidelines for modern man. The growing awareness of the connection between what we eat, our health and appearance means that the concept of nutricosmetics or beauty products «beauty foods» opens up attractive opportunities for food and supplement manufacturers. Ingredients that can support a healthy lifestyle, physical fitness and beauty are in great demand. In recent years, more people have been paying attention to taking collagen. This review shows the role of collagen in maintaining beauty from the inside.
Curcuma longa – the Oriental Guardian of Beauty

Balakina M.V., Ph.D. (Pharmaceuticals)

The article discusses the potential of using Curcuma longa in cosmetics. Dry turmeric powder has been known as a seasoning for food, a natural dye since ancient times. The role and properties of extracts isolated from C. longa, curcuminoids and turmeric component for the branches of pharmacology and dermatology have not yet been fully studied. In this regard, we would like to summarize information about the nature of the active ingredients, extract of C. longa and the features of their use in beauty products.


Vitamin C–squalene Bioconjugate Promotes Epidermal Thickening and Collagen Production in Human Skin

Vitamin C was covalently conjugated to squalene, a natural lipid of the skin, forming a novel Vit C–SQ derivative suitable for cream formulation. Its biological activity was investigated on human whole skin explants in an ex vivo model, through histology and protein and gene expression analyses. Results were compared to Vit C coupled to the reference lipophilic compound palmitic acid, (Vit C–Palmitate). It was observed that Vit C–SQ significantly increased epidermal thickness and preferentially favored collagen III production in human skin after application for 10 days. It also promoted glycosaminoglycans production in a higher extent comparatively to Vit C–Palmitate and free Vit C. Microdissection of the explants to separate dermis and epidermis allowed to measure higher transcriptional effects either in epidermis or in dermis. Among the formulations studied, the strongest effects were observed with Vit C–SQ.


«Contaminants in the Production of Vegetable Oils–we care!»

An interview with Dipl. — ecotrophologist Nadja Liebmann, freelance consultant and expert for vegetable oil quality and safety, chairwoman of the expert group Native Oils and Olive Oil of the Deutschen Gesellschaft für Fettwissenschaft (DGF) and Martin Geiger, Dipl. Food technologist, employee oil manufacture of Naturamus GmbH, member of the expert group Products and Product Safety of the DGF.


Potassium Cocoate
Merkulov D.A., PhD (Chemistry), Deputy Director for Technical Marketing and Sales Support Department sales of OOO Norchem

The article considers the properties and characteristics of potassium cocoate and its use in cosmetics and household chemicals.


Premium Packaging: Change of Focus

The ecological transition in luxury packaging is getting structured around various eco-design solutions which, given the innovations showcased, are mainly based on more responsible materials, refill solutions, new consumer gestures, and adaptability.


Raw materials for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals

Equipment for packaging manufacturing

Equipment for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals manufacturing

Packaging for perfumery and cosmetics

Manufacturing services. Contract manufacturing