Contents. № 04 (190) May 2017

NEWS

domestic chemistry Novelties

PACKAGING NEWS

EVENTS

All our secrets will be your knowledge: the opening of the Bang & Bonsomer’s Technical Application Center
The opening of the Technical Application Center Bang & Bonsomer took place in the Technopark Otradnoe on the 30th of March, 2017.

in-Cosmetics-2017: trends and innovations that determine the future of the cosmetics industry
in-Cosmetics Global has hold at the ExCeL London until 6 April, with hundreds of global personal care industry suppliers has showed their latest innovations to R&D professionals from across the world. Decorative cosmetics, stability, natural ingredients and scientific innovations have become the main themes of in-Cosmetics-2017. The review presents Euromonitor’s forecasts in the beauty segment, novelties in the field of raw materials and ingredients, winners of in-Sosmetics Global, scientific discoveries of the Innovation Zone and new events of the exhibition.

Leko Style Forum: in-Cosmetics-2017 Novelties
20 April, 2017 in Moscow and a little earlier in St. Petersburg Leko Style Company held a forum on the innovations of its partners, which was presented at the exhibition in-Cosmetics Global-2017, that had been held in London in early April.

MARKETING

Immediate effect in cosmetics is an important component of the emotional connection between the brand and a consumer
We live in a world of instant gratification when it comes to just about everything. Consumers these days tend to choose products emotionally. Everyone has started looking for instant results and sensations that involve skin tightening and lifting, erasing wrinkles instantly, blurring dark circles and puffiness and so on. More and more products delivering instant gratification or better efficacy are coming on the market, and optical ingredients, and smart lifting materials are more than ever very important tools for formulating the next generation products. They allow receiving immediate effect and giving time for work to «long term» anti-ageing ingredients, such as peptides, plant extracts e.t.c.

Ingredients

Anti-pollution weapon for skin by Solabia Group
N. Novikova, specialist of the technical and consulting support, Revada LLC
Again this year, the pollution thematic is more than ever in the front of the scene. After the spike we had a few months ago, consumers realized the real impact of external aggressions on our skin. Dark spots, premature aging, dull complexion and acne are just a few examples… To counter this damage, Solabia offers 3 different and complementary assets to answer all the problems.

ACTUALLY

Moisturizers – the basis of the skin care
V.А. Averianova, Ph.D (biology)
Moisturizers are a key component of basic skin care treatment especially when there is an alteration of the epidermal barrier and reduced water content in the epidermis. They are used to restore the barrier function of the epidermis, to cover tiny fissures in the skin to provide a soothing protective film and increase the water-content of the epidermis. To achieve their beneficial effects they include emollients, occlusive agents, and humectants, and there is an overwhelming number of formulations available on the market today. Newer products claim to have other properties such as anti-aging, skin-firming etc.

Big Ban in perfumery: Goodbye, lilly of the valley?
There are new rules of use for certain aromatic ingredients applied from the beginning of 2017 in the European Commission: a number of allergens that producers must indicate when labeling has grown from 26 to 89; there is also a full prohibition of atranol, chloroatranol and Hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC) more known as lyral. There is one more lily of the valley odorant that fell into disfavour by the European Commission – butylphenyl methylpropional (BMHCA), or lilial. In September 2015, SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) published a report which stipulated that after three years all compositions with lilial must be reformulated. Over the last few years nearly everyone in the perfume industry was occupied with identifying a substitution for lyral and lilial. What is not surprising is lyral and lilial present about 20% of all fragrant materials and that’s why any changes or bans in this field are taken so seriously. As we can see, there was a lot of work undertaken in recent years – lyral and lilial don’t appear in practically any modern fragrances; instead, a large number of new unique materials have been created.

trends

New green cosmetic ingredients
V. Ryabova
Year after year, green chemistry in the cosmetic industry is gaining in popularity, thanks to new functional ingredients released into the market, ingredients that combine good performance with biodegradability. Yet, nowadays, it is generally the smaller and faster companies that dare to innovate, in order to create a valuable point of difference from mainstream products.

IT’S INTERESTING TO KNOW

Discoveries That Make the World Better
V.А. Averianova, Ph.D (biology)
The editorial board of “Raw materials & Packaging” Magazine continues a selection of topical news on the latest scientific discoveries, which in the future could affect the development of the cosmetics industry.

experience

Bleaching without the Breakage
B. Arendes, A. Crovetto, H. Phillis, Active Concepts Srl, Italy
Leading edge technology indicates that mimicking bio-films formed by microorganisms could be the next step in chemical process protection for the hair. Synthetic biology is the redesign of existing, natural biological systems for other, useful purposes.

preview

Winners of The Cosmopack Wall – 2017
The 24 finalists have been announced at Cosmopack salon during Cosmoprof expo, the B2B international event for the beauty supply chain, has held in Bologna (Italy) from 16 to 19 March 2017. Raw materials, formulation, machinery and packaging: the best of the cosmetics industry and of the technological production will meet in Bologna to present for the first time their innovation and their latest industrial solutions.

PACKAGING & LABLE

Packaging for Men Grooming Care
E. Berezina
Perhaps the most striking phenomenon in the global Beauty market has become a men’s sector. Not only because it is growing rapidly and represents a huge potential, but because it demonstrates how changing men’s attitudes to their appearance, beauty and personal care. According to many analytical and marketing agencies, the men’s grooming market is steadily expanding due to the growth of a new category of metrosexual men and the changing ideas about male beauty. The review is devoted to men’s grooming. What it is, what it consists of, what men want to have, and how brands react to a new surge of masculine energy. What’s new on the market, and what cosmetic products can attract representatives of the stronger sex. Continuation. Beginning in the № 03

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