Contents. № 02 (188) March 2017

NEWS

domestic chemistry Novelties

BUSINESS NEWS

PACKAGING NEWS

ACTUALLY

Air pollution and the skin
E. Drakaki, C. Dessinioti, C. V. Antoniou, Photobiology Unit, First Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Andreas Sygros Hospital, University of Athens, Greece
The increase of air pollution over the years has major effects on the human skin. Exposure of the skin to air pollutants has been associated with skin aging and inflammatory or allergic skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis or acne, while skin cancer is among the most serious effects. On the other hand, some air pollutants (i.e., O3, nitrogen dioxide, and sulfur dioxide) and scattering particulates (clouds and soot) in the troposphere reduce the effects of shorter wavelength UVR and significant reductions in UV irradiance have been observed in polluted urban areas.

Protection against IR and HEV induced damage
V.А. Averianova, Ph.D (biology)
The protection trend is global, growing and here to stay. Although protection will always include UV, it now encompasses HEV, IR/Heat, EMR and pollution. Defense against solar radiation is vital to human health. But today it is clear, that current sun care products that filter both UVA and UVB rays are insufficient since they do not block all the damaging rays from the sun. Long considered to be harmless, infrared rays(IR) have now been identified as a major contributor to photo-damage. The same can be told about visible blue light (HEV). So, reliable protection of the skin in the future should include ingredients, effectively blocking negative effects of IR and HEV too.

experience

Sunscreen Formulation Principles and Theory
B. Carli, Director, Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS), Australia
Sunscreens play a vital role in fighting aging caused due to sun. The consumption of sunscreens has seen a rise since consumers have started understanding the significance of these products. Formulating a sunscreen product may not be as easy as you might think. There are a lot of aspects taken into consideration. Amongst them the most important thing to remember is that the stability of the formulation and UV results are not always predictable.

Anti-pollution: the chois of ingredients and approaches to confirm declared properties
Pollution is considered particularly problematic in Asia, as air pollution has hit critical levels in many major cities. In addition to contributing to premature death, ground level ozone pollution, particulate matter, traffic fumes, UV rays and smog are skin aggressors that accelerate ageing, wrinkles and dull complexions. As consumers increasingly demand brands and products that prioritize the use of anti-pollution ingredients, this presents a vast opportunity to beauty and personal care companies in Asia, which are focusing on R&D to evolve and innovate.

Assessment of the Effectiveness of Detergents and Cleaning Products
V.M. Filippenkov, Ph.D. (Chemistry), General Director, NITSBYTHIM
Continuation, beginning at №1 2017. A survey article on the methods of assessing of the effectiveness of detergents and cleaning products by testing purposes, in particular, for laundry, dish washing by hand and in dishwashers, universal cleaners for bathroom, tiles, toilet, kitchen etc. There are recommendations on the methods of the composition’s selection, identification or confirmation of compliance, as well as examples of the comparative tests with a purpose of market positioning and advertising applications. There are specific references to the test methods.

Ingredients

Lanthanum Organic Compounds – an Efficient way of Skin Protection
To date, it is obvious as for customers as for cosmetics ‘producers that special cosmetics for citizens are becoming a necessity. There is a usage as active components – film formers or substances with antioxidant activity or assets that can activate natural detox protection mechanisms, protecting the skin cells, to create protective cosmetics. Also, organic compounds of rear-earth metal – lanthanum may be interesting and unique active compounds for protective cosmetics.

A new Look to Fatty Oils as Active Ingredients
I. Glushnev, Chief Technologist of TPK Leko Style
Until recently, the cosmetics fatty oils have been primarily used as a base or cosmetic emollients – auxiliaries, set into the stratum corneum and imparting softness and smoothness to the skin. The second way of the fats usage was pharmaceuticals. However, their use as cosmetic ingredients is a trend of the last two decades. Oils increasingly act as active components, involved in the physiological skin processes, while the auxiliary function passed on inert emollients in modern cosmetic formulations.

Glucamides – New Green Surfactants for Cosmetic Products
P. Klug, C. Mildner, Clariant Produkte (Deutschland) GmbH, Germany
Glucamides – a new class of nonionic surfactants – are very well performing co-surfactants with excellent mildness. They show thickening and structuring properties combined with excellent foam properties.

MARKETING

Demographic development Prospects of Cosmetic Industry in Russia
I.E. Kalabikhina, N.M. Kalmykova, Faculty of Economics. Moscow State University M.V. Lomonosov, Moscow
Today the population in Russia is aging and living longer. Age 50+ consumers are a growing economic force that will transform multiple industries including cosmetics. Aging consumers are beginning to demand products and services tailored to their specific needs, and companies that ignore this massive demographic shift and its global impact are likely to miss a significant opportunity.

Features of the Cosmetics Market in Poland

I. Lyssazh, CenterUpack
The cosmetics market of Poland, represented by more than 100 large and medium and nearly 300 smaller operating cosmetics manufacturers and 40 million of consumers. Consumer preferences, most thriving purchase spots, structural, qualitative and quantitative change dynamics of a market worth 5.4 € billion with its phenomenal domestic production development over the last 3 decades – all in a full review of the past, the present and the future of the Polish cosmetics market.

INTERVIEW

Flowers of the Empress – From an Idea to a Victory or how to Create Masterpieces
The official 12th International Competition for the Best Packaging and Label ProdExtraPack – 2017, Award Ceremony took place in the Expocentre, at the time of the past International Exhibition Prodexpo-2017, held in Moscow. A gift set packaging of hand creams Flowers of the Empress by the oldest domestic producer SVOBODA became a laureate in the category Packaging for the Perfumery, Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products.

Cosmetic Design Packaging: the Priority is the Harmony
Lately, a packaging of consumer commodities features an important part in marketing. It is a packaging that often becomes a key factor of a successful launch of a new product. The Russian packaging market, including the cosmetic industry, is still new, but, nevertheless, there is an increasing of a successful implementation of new products creation projects. Dmitry Kostyuhin, the Lead Designer-Constructor of the Studio CPDS (Cosmopack Pro Design Studio) shared his point of view about packaging industry’s problems and success in Russia in an interview with the magazine Raw Materials & Packaging.

THEORY

Logistics in Automated Enterprise Management Systems as a Necessary Tool to Develop a Company
D. Piszalev, Commercial Manager, JSC Vertex
To date, there is a situation of difficult market competition, complicated a strong position of foreign companies. Acutely raises questions about providing with a high rate of response of accompany to changes in demand. Is it any use responding to these changes? How much profit a company will get if responds to these changes in time? How much – will lose if the reaction is untimely? A tool to make a right decision has already been created – automated enterprise management systems. The secret of their work is based on the principle of management of logistics concepts.

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