BB creams, also known as Blemish Balm creams, deliver a multitude of benefits to the skin such as UV protection, light coverage and moisturisation. This multifunctional formulation gives a flawless complexion and offers UV protection by delivering SPF 20 and meeting the European Commission recommendation for UVA protection. It is based entirely on naturally derived ingredients, many of which are approved natural by Ecocert or from an organic, Fairtrade or ethical source.
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Phase |
Product (INCI Name) |
Functionality |
% w/w |
|
A |
Solaveil™ XT-300 (Titanium Dioxide (and) |
UV Absorber |
15.00 |
|
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina)1 Crodamol™ GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1 |
Light Emollient |
7.00 |
|
|
Span™ 20 (Sorbitan Laurate)1 |
O/W Co-emulsifier |
3.04 |
|
|
Crodamol™ ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)1 |
Moisturising Emollient |
3.00 |
|
|
Pripure™ 3759 (Squalane)1 |
Spreading Emollient |
3.00 |
|
|
NatraGem™ E145 (Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqua)1 |
O/W Emulsifier |
2.46 |
|
|
Sensi-Care NatScent DF (Parfum)7 |
Perfume |
0.10 |
|
|
B |
Water (Aqua) |
— |
To 100 |
|
Pricerine™ 9091 (Glycerin)1 |
Humectant |
3.00 |
|
|
Skin Conditioning |
2.00 |
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|
Revitalising and Nourishing |
1.00 |
||
|
Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua)3 Veegum Ultra (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate)4 |
Thickener |
1.00 |
|
|
Keltrol SFT (Xanthan Gum)6 |
Thickener |
0.50 |
|
|
C |
BYO-NJE3 (Iron Oxides (C.I. 77492) (and) Jojoba esters)8 |
Yellow Pigment |
0.96 |
|
BRO-NJE2 (Iron Oxides (C.I. 77491) (and) Jojoba esters)8 |
Red Pigment |
0.24 |
|
|
BBO-NJE2 (Iron Oxides (C.I. 77499) (and) Jojoba esters)8 |
Black Pigment |
0.06 |
|
|
D |
Purac HiPure 90 (Lactic Acid)9 |
pH Adjuster |
qs |
|
Euxyl K712 (Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate)5 |
Preservative |
0.80 |
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: Crodarom 4: Lake Chemicals and Minerals 5: Schülke and Mayr 6: CP Kelco 7: Bell Flavours and Fragrances 8: Aston Chemicals 9: Purac
Method
- Premix the Keltrol CG SFT, Veegum Ultra and Pricerine 9091. Add water with stirring. Once fully hydrated add Crodarom Black Quinoa and Resistem whilst stirring. Separately combine phase A and then add to Phase B with stirring. Homogenise at 10000rpm for 1 min/100g.
- Add the pre-ground Phase C and homogenise until the colour is fully dispersed. Adjust pH with lactic acid to 5.0-5.5. Once the pH is adjusted add Euxyl K712.
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Appearance: Medium Tan Cream |
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pH: 5.5 |
Viscosity: 5700cP +/- 10%, at 20°C, Spindle S91,5 RPM for 1 minute, Brookfield DV-I |
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Stability: 3 months at 4°C, 25°C, 40°C, 45°C and 50°C |
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In vitro SPF: 23 |
Label SPF: 20 |
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UVA/UVB ratio: 0.7 |
UVAPF: 8 |
Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.5 |
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