Contents, № 08 (207) october 2018


domestic chemistry Novelties




Ashland Skin and Hair Solutions

There was a seminar for cosmetics manufacturers, dedicated the actual Ashland solutions for hair and skin care products in the Bakhrushin conference hall of the Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel on September 11th and 12th. During seminar was presented a variety of textures that emphasize a special polymer combination that gives a unique sensorial appeal. The highlight of the seminar was the work of the stylist of the international school Keune Design.

CHEMIS 007 Breaks Stereotypes

Russo Chemie held its now traditional seminar KEMIS on September, 13th. At the seminar were presented new items, bestsellers, latest trends, forecasts by market leaders, expert guidance and innovative solutions from “Russo Chemie”.

Cosmetic Workshop BASF

September 18, 2018 a seminar for cosmetics manufacturers was held at the Moscow office of BASF. Together with European experts the guests discussed topical issues: certification of natural cosmetics, skin cleansing, trends in Superfoods and protection of the skin from the environment. During the poster session guests learned about new formats of hair products and the influence of Sunscreens on marine organisms.


PCHi 2019: An Invigorating Experience for the Personal Care Industry

Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE) today announces that pre-registration for the 12th edition of the Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) is now open. From 26 to 28 February, PCHi 2019 will welcome over 600 companies from more than 30 countries and regions to showcase their latest innovations and technology at the Guangzhou Poly World Trade Centre.


Biological Skin Rhythms and Anti-age
Prokopov A., Candidate of Medical Sciences, Laboratory of Novelties ROS-Chemistry, Ekaterinburg
Gazitaeva Z., Fijie Beauty Institute, Moscow

Continued, beginning at No. 7 (205). In December 2017 Jeffrey C Hall, Michael Rosbash and Michael W Young win Nobel prize in Physiology or Medicine for ‘their discoveries of molecular mechanisms controlling the circadian rhythm’. This discovery has not only a colossal applied value for the entire human organism, but also a direct practical application for the skin – in the field of cosmetology and aesthetic medicine.


Akypo® FOAM LM 25: new high foamed surfactant for sulfate-free detergents
Popova Yu., Head of Technical and Consulting Support Services, Revada

Akypo® FOAM LM 25 is the latest anionic sulfate-free surfactant, launched at In-Cosmetics Global 2018 by Kao Chemicals Europe. This new surfactant (INCI name: Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate) was developed with the aim of obtaining a special texture. The product has been designed to achieve luxurious foam, with a very small bubble size and high foam consistency. Despite being an anionic surfactant, it is mild to the skin and eyes. When used as a secondary surfactant, it reduces irritation and improves the foam quality. Easy to thicken surfactant and specially designed for sulfate-free formulations.

Functional esters – multifunctional ingredients for make-up formulations

Esters are ideal ingredients to meet the current trend of multitasking makeup products. Thanks to their great versatility, they can be used to disperse pigments, to provide various functional benefits and to bring unique and sophisticated sensorial effects to the products.

Color additives in make-up: natural ore synthetic?

Color additives in cosmetics include dyes and pigments, this group of ingredients is the most tightly regulated group in the cosmetic industry today. They play an important role in making creams and shampoos seem more appealing, or for make-up in actually staining the skin. Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the products they apply to their skin. Given this trend and the growing demand for natural cosmetics, the industry is moving towards using natural pigments. However, those are difficult to formulate due to handling and compatibility issues. Let’s face facts: natural colors are not as iridescent, strong, or shelf-stable as synthetic colors. But skincare products using natural colorants are taking the market by storm.

Omyadent – a new multifunctional component of toothpastes
Zhoga A., Sales Manager, Omya Algol Rus

New generation of mineral components from Omya: functionalized calcium carbonate (FCC). Omyadent – a multifunctional ingredient that acts as a high-efficiency carrier with controlled release properties and as an active for oral care applications.


Mascara Formulations: history and modernity

Mascaras are used to thicken, lengthen, color, curl, and provide volume to eyelashes which helps accentuate the appearance of eyes. Currently marketed mascaras include water-resistant, waterproof, and volumizing types, formulated as oil in water, water in oil, and anhydrous formulations. The most common type of mascara formulation currently sold is a lamellar gel network (LGN) based oil in water emulsion, stabilized using soluble polymers. These formulations are quite versatile and can provide good application, functional performance, wear/wash resistance, and rapid drying.


Discoveries That Make the World Better
Averianova V.А., Ph.D (Biology)

The editorial board of Raw materials & Packaging Magazine continues a selection of topical news on the latest scientific discoveries, which in the future could affect the development of the cosmetics industry.


New Opportunities: Astrakhan Analogue of the Dead Sea mud

The Astrakhan Region administration announced support for a project to develop innovative therapeutic and prophylactic drugs based on extracts of local silt mud, mineral water, liquorice extract and individually selected bacteriophages. The governor instructed the sectoral regional ministries to calculate the amount of investment in the project, necessary to start production, including – on the basis of public-private partnership (PPP). Center of rehabilitation of the Fund of Social Insurance of the Russian Federation Tinaki leads the project which can affect the development of domestic medical tourism. It uses a mud field in the work, has a laboratory of the department of pharmacognosy, pharmaceutical technology and biotechnology of the Astrakhan Medical University and a dental polyclinic of this University. The Head of Department of Astrakhan State Medical University Marina Samotroeva, who also heads the department of the rehabilitation center Tinaki, tells about the development and prospects of the project.


Oral care: choose landmarks

The oral care market has been diversified in the last couple of years, focusing on natural ingredients for gum health, whitening beauty claims, cute packaging, and is influenced by niche toothpaste brands especially from Asia.

A joint study of Russian and German scientists will help optimize the effectiveness of detergent compositions

Reported is an unanticipated mechanism of attractive electrostatic interactions of fully neutralized polyacrylic acid (PAA) with like‐charged surfactants. Amphiphilic polymer‐surfactant complexes with high interfacial activity and a solubilization capacity exceeding that of conventional micelles are formed by bridging with Ca2+ ions. Incorporation of a protease into such dynamic nanoreactors results in a synergistically enhanced cleaning performance because of the improved solubilization of poorly water‐soluble immobilized proteins. Competitive interfacial and intermolecular interactions on different time‐ and length‐scales have been resolved using colorimetric analysis, dynamic tensiometry, light scattering, and molecular dynamic simulations. The discovered bridging association mechanism suggests reengineering of surfactant/polymer/enzyme formulations of modern detergents and opens new opportunities in advancing labile delivery systems.


Color cosmetics packaging: focus on functionality and texture
Berezina E.

Modern term «innovation» has lost its original value and accompanies the release of most beauty products to the market. News about innovations in the field of formulation, texture, methods of application, packaging and so on can easily draw attention to the new products. These cleverly manipulated by many brands. In reality, few can claim the title of revolutionary developments and really have outstanding characteristics in one of these categories. But they are! This review will briefly introduce readers to some interesting examples of make-up products, which can rightfully claim to be innovative and unique.


Raw materials for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals

Equipment for packaging manufacturing

Equipment for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals manufacturing

Packaging for perfumery and cosmetics

Manufacturing services. Contract manufacturing