Contents, № 06 (192) july–august 2017


domestic chemistry Novelties




Revada Seminar for Cosmetics Producers – Rainbow of Novelties

On the 1st of June, Revada Company held a seminar for cosmetics producers in Moscow where the main attention was focused on novelties, introduced to Revada’s partners at the exhibition in-Cosmetics this year.

Modern Hair Care with Symrise

Symrise held a seminar, dedicated to burning issue “Hair care” for the Russian cosmetic manufacturers.

Bang & Bonsomer Workshop – Sensitive Skin Products

In the beginning of June, in Catherine Palace in Moscow, Bang & Bonsomer held a workshop, dedicated to functional and active components for formulations for sensitive skin.


The Birch Tree Products and their Usage in Cosmetics

The birch tree has been the subject of respect and admiration throughout prehistory and history, as well as the subject of curiosity of science and industry in the modern world. The twentieth century has been a time of deep, fundamental study into the chemistry of birch products. The symbiosis of the birch tree and civilisation should now be reconsidered through the scientific vision of a new century. Science tels, that birch natural products can find their current and future applications in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and dietary supplements for the prevention and treatment of cancer, HIV, and other human pathogens and so on.

The World of Fragrances: On the Way to Naturalness, Custumisation and Sustainability

After decades of growth largely based on inexpensive new synthetic molecules made available by synthetic organic chemistry, the global fragrance industry is slowly but inevitably changing towards sustainable fragrances. The reason for this shift is simple: consumers wish to buy naturally derived fragrances widely perceived as beneficial to health, avoiding synthetic ingredients which, among other adverse health effects, are often allergenic. Сustomized perfumes and blend-it-yourself beauty, once the stuff of only boutiques and kitchen beauticians, are becoming more mainstream thanks to innovative indie brands and strategic acquisitions by big beauty.


A new Look at Sunflower – Concentrate of new Functional Ingredients for Cosmetics
N.V. Losev, Ph.D., V.E. Tarasov, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor. Kuban state technological university, Krasnodar, Russia

The sunflower is as a source of the vegetable oil as a many other valuable components for cosmetic formulations. The using technology of derived sunflower seeds, described in the article, allows to significantly reduce the production cost of vegetable oil and, mainly, to increase the physiological activity of cosmetics, due to the use of a number of sunflower nutrients in formulations.

Microplastics: How Serious is the Threat and Which are the Alternatives?
Dr. K. Huttner, Editor-in-Chief of

There is a lot of talk about microplastics in cosmetics. And there is a large discussion about its definition. But is its level of environmental harmfulness really dependent on the particle size and form? Certainly cosmetics industry should be aware and pro-active about avoiding environmentally critically ingredients in their products. Considering biological degradability, biopersistence and toxicology of disputed synthetic substances used in personal care products, should be the constant concern of any responsible producer.


Clean and healthy skin without inflammation and redness
А. Thiemann, S. Gröne, M. Salmina-Petersen, J. Jänichen, Dr. Straetmans. Hamburg, Germany

Dermosoft Decalact Sebum by Dr. Straetmans, a naturally-derived multifunctional blend, reduces sebum secretion, bacterial infection, skin redness and skin imperfections at a low dosage.

Danox® HC-30: Effective Hair Conditioning
Yu. Popova, Head of Technical and Consulting Support Service, Revada LLC

Kao Chemicals Europe offers DANOX® HC-30, a new eco-friendly and ready-to-use hair conditioning system based on a synergistic combination of cationic surfactants and fatty alcohol that allows a single-step formulation process. DANOX® HC-30 is a solid product, easy to handle and with an excellent performance in hair conditioning formulations. DANOX® HC-30 is also compatible with silicones and it acts as a viscosity builder, reducing the need of extra ingredients in the formulation. It can be used in a wide range of hair care products from leave-on sprays to hair masks. INCI name: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (and) Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Stearyl Alcohol (and) Lactic Acid.

Lactic Acid – the Green Alternative for Bacterial Desinfection
F. Weiher, Jungbunzlauer Ladenburg GmbH, Germany, M. Neubauer, Jungbunzlauer International AG, Switzerland

More than ever before, the formulation of antimicrobial products is subject to comprehensive requirements and constraints. In Europe, the Biocidal Products Regulation (BPR) sets rigorous standards regarding active substance approval, product authorisation and efficacy testing. Further, there is an increasing demand by users of biocidal actives and finished products for safety and sustainability. In view of this background was investigated the anti-bacterial properties of L(+)-lactic acid, an ingredient produced by natural fermentation, which is safe to handle and readily biodegradable. This report demonstrates the excellent bactericidal performance of lactic acid, as assessed by established EN protocols. High bacterial reduction levels even under demanding test conditions underline the potential of lactic acid as an efficient alternative to conventional biocides.


Microplastic – Timely Solution of a Problem. Interview with the Expert of BASF Concern Helmut Gümbel

Microplastic is often used in cosmetics. It is not biodegradable and captured by treatment facilities. As a result it gets sewage waters and accumulates in the biosphere. Are these components a threat to the environment? Is it possible to find a replacement for them in cosmetics, as far as it is relevant now? What alternative raw materials does the modern market offer? The BASF expert Helmut Gümbel granted us an interview.

Anna Zworykina: Talk About Natural Perfumes

Anna Zworykina, the author of the brand of natural perfumes “Anna Zworykina Perfumes”. She is an perfumer-artist, a coach of perfume courses, the author of the unique book «From Carnation to Sandal», an organizer of the Russian festival of indie-perfumery. The fragrances created by Anna find the recognition of various people. Anna is a staunch supporter of natural perfumery; she willingly shares her knowledge and experience in this field with readers of Raw Materials & Packaging Magazine.


Castomisation in Cosmetics: Variations in Interpretation
V.А. Averianova, Ph.D (biology)

Castomisation in the beauty industry has been in the spotlight lately, and now experts picked it out as one of four key trends for the industry to watch.


A New Opportunities of The Latest Methods of Packaging Decoration
E. Berezina

Theme of packaging decoration never runs out. It is true especially when it comes around perfumery and cosmetic range and skin care products. Every month in the ranks of different categories, there are novelties that stand out against the standard products and attract consumers with unusual appearance. One of the ways of creating exclusive unit was the use of different decoration techniques, the latest printing and coloring methods, 3D effects, and metallization. This review focuses on the most vivid examples of packaging that entered the market over the past year, and the latest deco techniques from leading experts in the field of packaging and design.

Calendar of specialized exhibitions for II half-year 2017


Raw materials for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals

Equipment for packaging manufacturing

Equipment for cosmetics, perfumery and household chemicals manufacturing

Packaging for perfumery and cosmetics

Manufacturing services. Contract manufacturing