IBR-Dormin® (INCI: Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract) is a natural aqueous extract from Narcissus bulbs in their dormant state that is able to slow cell proliferation in a reversible and general manner. Among cell types affected are also keratinocytes and sebocytes. IBR-Dormin captures and transform flower bulbs dormancy and beauty to the skin.

Sebocytes and Sebum: sebum is an oily/waxy matter that is secreted by the sebaceous glands and produced by the specialized cells named sebocytes. The sebum is used to lubricate and water proof the skin and hair of mammals. In humans they are found in greater abundance in the face and scalp but also distributed throughout all skin sites. There are several medical conditions related to excess production of sebum that include seborrhea and acne.

 Acne develops as a result of blockages in follicles or comedones as a result of enlargement and clogging of sebaceous glands and increased sebum production. Under these conditions, the naturally occurring bacteria,Propionibacterium acnes that nourish on the sebum and cell debris can cause inflammation expressed in lesions leading to scars and local pigmentation.

 It’s been suggested that reduction in sebum production to reduce total oils in the skin may contribute to preventing and treating acne outbreaks. A way to control sebum production could therefore be reduction in sebocytes proliferation that leads to reduced production and secretion of sebum thereby reducing oiliness of the skin as suggest to be controlled by IBR-Dormin®.

  in vitro studies showed that IBR-Dormin® (0.05%-0.4%) reduced sebocytes number in a dose responsive effect and relative to untreated control, ranging from 48.9-89.3%, respectively.

 Clinical evaluation of the efficacy of products containing 1.5% IBR-Dormin® on the reduction of oiliness in a randomized, double blind, parallel treatment, placebo-controlled trial was conducted.

 Test products:

• Gel product with 1.5% IBR-IBR-Dormin
• Gel product with 1.5% IBR-IBR-Dormin + 0.5% Salicylic acid
• Gel product with 0.5% Salicylic acid
• Commercial Benchmark Cream (CBC)

Participants: 80 subjects (20 for each product). Male or female, 13-20 years old and in general good health. Subjects had oily facial skin (Sebumeter reading of 180 and above)

Study:  The study lasted 8 weeks (2 weeks washout + 6 weeks treatment).

                Expert assessment for

–       Oiliness

–       Open comedones

–       Blackheads

Instrumental assessment:

–       Sebumeter Measurements

Subject Self Assessment

–       Subject Self Assessment for parameters like oiliness, shine, dryness, flakiness and irritation.

All assessments were taken at baseline, day 3, week 1, week 2, week 4 and week 6.

 Results:

Dermatological Assessment

Oiliness: Significant decrease was observed in oiliness for both the IBR-Dormin formulations and CBC from day 3 onwards until week 6. Placebo shows significant decrease from week 1.

Blackheads:

Significant change is observed in case of IBR-Dormin + sal acid and CBC formulations from Week 1 onwards and this is maintained until week 6. IBR-Dormin without sal acid only formulation shows significant change from week 2 onwards.

No significant change is observed in case of placebo wrt baseline.

No significant difference observed between the products.

Open Comedones:

Significant difference vsbaseline is observed in case of IBR-Dormin with sal acid (from week 1) and CBC (from week 2)

Placebo shows no significant improvement vs baseline.

Instrumental Assessment IBR-Dormin + sal acid shows significant reduction in sebumeter readings vs baseline from day 3 until week 4.

CBC shows significant difference vs baseline from day 3 until week 2.

Placebo shows significant difference only at day 3 and not at subsequent timepoints.

 Consumer Self Assessment Subjects perceive significant improvement in oiliness vs baseline for all products except placebo from day 3 onwards.

In case of placebo significant improvement is seen from week 1.

Subjects also perceive improvement in shine for 1.5% IBR-Dormin from week 1.They also perceive that 1.5% IBR-Dormin and CBC formulation make their skin feel less dry from week 1.

 1.5% IBR-Dormin formulation is also perceived to reduce flaky patches on skin from week 4.

Both CBC and placebo is perceived to improve softness from week 2.

 CBC is found to improve overall appearance from week 1, while 1.5% IBR-Dormin is found to improve overall appearance from week 2.

  CONCLUSION 

IBR-Dormin®  ability to control and reduce cell proliferation of various types of cells including sebocytes may assist in reducing skin oiliness, shine, pore size and improves overall appearance. Together with ingredients that can control the acne related bacterial growth one may significantly affect acne outbreaks as well as post acne scaring and pigmentation.