NEWS
domestic chemistry Novelties
PACKAGING NEWS
trends
The Russian Cosmetic Brand in 2027: From an Era of Rapid Growth to an Era of Strong Brands
Dycheva-Smirnova A., Chair of the Organizing Committee for the InterCHARM, author of the BeautyAD Telegram channel, and Board Member of the Russian Perfume and Cosmetics Association
The article outlines trends in the Russian cosmetics market. According to expert forecasts, in 2027, the Russian cosmetics industry will definitively transition from an era of rapid growth to an era of strong brands.
ACTUALLY
From Composition to Causation: Why Science-Led Beauty is Reshaping the Ingredients Industry
The article describes why science-led beauty is reshaping the Ingredients Industry. For years, efficacy was communicated through concentration: percentages on pack, hero actives in the product name, long ingredient lists that signaled effort and investment. That approach is no longer enough. Consumers are asking sharper questions. Regulators are tightening what can be claimed. And brands are expecting their suppliers and formulators to come to the table with more than specifications.
Ingredients
Phenoxyethanol: a Profile of a Preservative
Krasney E., Technologist Developer
Phenoxyethanol has been used as a preservative in cosmetics since the mid-20th century. However, following the introduction of bans and restrictions on a number of other preservatives, it has increasingly been adopted as an alternative. Today, it is the most widely used preservative, found in the formulations of approximately half of all leave-on cosmetic products.
A Modern Solution for Combating Neuropigmentation from Solabia
Novikova N., Technical and Advisory Support Specialist, Revada LLC
Bloomlight® is a new bioinspired active designed to address neuropigmentation through exosome-based communication. Developed from French organic lemon thyme, it targets early neurogenic triggers and established pigmentation pathways linked to stress and environmental exposure. It helps to restore balanced interactions between keratinocytes, sensory neurons, and melanocytes, acting at the origin of pigmentary disruption. Uniquely validated on an exclusive preclinical model and tested in an advanced organ-on-chip system, Bloomlight® helps refine the keratinocyte-neuron dialog. It also contributes to improve epidermal renewal, counteracts senescence-induced dysregulation and controlled melanin transfer. Clinically assessed at 3%, Bloomlight® improves skin tone uniformity and dark spot appearance. Solabia Group continues to explore the relationship between sensitive skin and neurocosmetics, sensory perception and comfort, to offer a new perspective on skincare.
Caution: Methylene Chloride!
The FDA continues to exercise strict oversight of the cosmetics category; in particular, it actively identifies and publishes information regarding products containing methylene chloride.
EUROPEAN PREMIERES
Beyond SPF: European UV filters for modern sunscreen formulas
Pavlov A., General Director, Prospector LLC
Sunscreen cosmetics are becoming less and less like a separate seasonal category. SPF is now becoming part of daily care, which means that UV filters are expected to provide not only protection but also stability, good sensorial properties, and ease of production.
experience
Preservatives in Cosmetics: Boosters and Pitfalls of Modern Formulation
Melnikova D.S., Head of the Microbiological Laboratory, Neokhim LLC
The same preservative reliably protects one formulation yet fails tests in another. The reason lies not in the preservative itself, but in dozens of factors capable of enhancing or diminishing its effectiveness.
Hydroxyethyl Urea, Urea, or Glycerin: Which Moisturizer to Choose?
Malyshev A., Director of MIG Chemicals
The choice of a humectant is often perceived as a secondary decision: glycerin is affordable, well-studied, and used by default. However, when moving to more sophisticated products, its limitations become apparent—sensory (stickiness), system stability (pH drift), and component compatibility. In such cases, the selection of a humectant acquires practical significance. This article compares three compounds that formulators most often choose between: glycerin, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Urea, CAS 2078–71–9). The comparison is based on physicochemical properties, research data, and manufacturing practice.
RESEARCH
Sea Buckthorn, Rooibos, Moringa, Kigelia, and HA Gel: the Mechanism of Ingredient Action Via the Skin on Systemic Aging
Does skin aging trigger the aging of the entire organism, and can cosmetics slow down this process? The authors of the article “Senescent skin fibroblasts: molecular logistics of distant action and systemic influence of exogenous biologically active substances in the human body” – A. Yu. Prokopov, A. O. Drobintseva, P. N. Lyubyakina, and I. M. Kvetnoy – have found the answer. The scientists proved in vitro that short wave UV radiation (UVC, stress) damages not only dermal fibroblasts. Senescent cells send out distant signals that accelerate the aging of internal organs. The article describes the mechanism by which the ingredients (sea buckthorn, rooibos, moringa, kigelia, and HA gel) act through the skin to affect systemic aging.
THEORY
Household disinfectant and antifungal products: efficiency and safety
Matveichuk Yu.V., PhD, Himtec Company LLC, Minsk, Republic of Belarus
The main disinfectants and their effectiveness against various bacteria, viruses, fungi, spores, and molds are examined. Particular attention is paid to disinfectants that are maximally safe for household use.
PACKAGING & LABeL
RosUpack and Printech 2026: A 30th Anniversary Marking the Start of a New Era in Packaging and Printing
Smirnova E., Editor, www.cosmetic-industry.com
From June 16 to 19, 2026, the Crocus Expo International Exhibition Center in Moscow hosted the 30th anniversary edition of RosUpack, the International Exhibition for the Packaging Industry, and the 11th edition of Printech, the International Exhibition for Printing Equipment and Technologies. For over two decades, we have been showcasing the best solutions from this industry event in our editorial reviews, and this season is no exception as we present the most interesting products and packaging.